Glossary

1. Block patterns

   Blocks [slopers] are the 'tools of the trade' of professional designers and pattern cutters and are not usually commercially available. They are the templates from which style patterns are developed with the correct tolerances included for body movement.

2. Comfort

   The stretchability and stiffness of the fabrics are the key elements in the ergonomic comfort. Stretch is the ability of a fabric to extend when force is applied and recover to almost its original dimensions when the force is removed. This ability is very important in the case of denim fabric, especially jeans, because it facilitates body movement during walking and sitting. Stiffness is the opposite of flexibility and is expressed as flexural rigidity. Similar to the stretchability property, it provides accommodation for movement and it is also an important factor for shape retention.

   Physiological comfort includes three areas: thermos-physiological comfort, sensorial comfort, and garment fit. The body constantly generates heat from the metabolism of food and muscle activity, and releases heat to the environment. A balance must be maintained between the rates of heat production and heat loss. Fabrics that are cool on skin contact are favored in hot weather and those which are warm on skin contact are more suitable for winter clothing. No matter how well a fabric is engineered to attain the optimum values of heat, water or air transmission, any garment made from it cannot be regarded as comfortable if it does not fit properly. Two factors are considered in the determination of good fit of a garment. One is a subjective factor that depends on whether the wearer achieves psychological satisfaction from the garment. The other factor is a physiological one that is concerned with the conditions of contact between fabric and body. Proper fit gives one a feeling of physical comfort and self-confidence and a badly-fitting garment can cause skin abrasion and induce irritation.

   Major factors to be considered in providing clothing that fits well are the amount of room for movement of different parts of the body. Ample room for movement is important, especially for the front and back of the shoulder joint. More body ease is needed across the back in order to allow for the forward movement of the arms. Sleeve lengths should be arranged so that sideways arm movements do not cause undue tightening at the waist. Collar or neck edges should lie flat and fit the neckline snugly as designed. It is essential that shoulder length be correct for both the body and the style. Adequate seat room is also important.

   Psychological comfort relates to the aesthetic appearance of outfit. Wearers can obtain psychological comfort when they are dressed in a style/ fashion/ manner that is adequate for the purpose of the clothing and in accord with the wearers' view of their economic, social, and functional status.

3. Construction patterns

   This is a general term used for patterns constructed from a set of body measurements as opposed to patterns constructed from a set of grade rules. Construction patterns (all constructed basic blocks and styles derived from them) are developed through a 'made to measure' process.

4. Design

   Design used as a term in the Suitsu organisation has a broader definition than mere aesthetics. It is much more; it is a way of thinking, doing and communicating with the consumer and society as a whole. This definition encompasses divine proportions, symbolism, decoration and functionality. Designing involves bringing into being new products for the consumer i.e. consumer focussed design that has relevance in everyday life. This is an interactive approach, which seeks out new / better ways of creating apparel diversity and quality in material, manufacture and solution. Design at Suitsu asks the ethical question about the consequences of product performance.

5. Draping

   Creating a pattern from a 3D dress form. Designers in Bridge, Designer, and Couture drape new styles in muslin / calico or the intended fabric to develop the first pattern. These are then transferred to paper.

6. Fit model

   A fit model is used to assess the fit, styling and overall look of the new prototype. It is a person selected to represent the body proportions that the apparel organization considers ideal for its target customer and that correspond to the size used to make the prototype.

   There are two basic types of model for fitting, in-house models and professional fit models. The in-house models may work for the organization in another capacity and are asked to try on prototypes as needed as a part of their job duties. The professional fitting models may work for a number of apparel organizations, so specific appointments will be made for fit sessions, requiring both lead time to book the appointment and on-time delivery of prototypes for the fitting session.

7. Fittings

   Fittings provide valuable information about the comfort and ease of the garment. Designers are concerned about three basic comforts during the process of the model fitting: the ergonomical comfort, the physiological comfort and the psychological comfort.

8. Grade rule patterns

   Consist of perimeter and grade points. Grade rule patterns (all grade rule blocks and styles derived from them) cannot be graded "made to measure".

9. Mass customisation

   Using computer technology that can adjust patterns to fit specific measurements of individual customers. CAD will scan body dimensions. A modem connects computer in store to apparel manufacturer. The customized pattern is plotted, fabric cut and garment sewn and shipped to customer at retail site. CAD can use 3-D texture mapping so customer can view their image on screen wearing garments in different colors, fabrics, patterns or styles is working on optical non-contact measuring technology.

10. Sloper

    Another name given to block patterns. Mainly used overseas - Australia refers to them usually as Blocks.

11. Style patterns

    These are patterns, which possess the features that relate to a specific design.   Sometimes a style pattern can resemble a basic block pattern with no additional features.